Nathalie Cooke: Selected Publications and Presentations

Selected Publications

“Reflecting on Home and Away – Over a Canadian Meal.” in A Taste of Home: Les saveurs de chez soi. Eds Ylenia De Luca and Oriana Palusci. Hamilton, ON: Guernica World Editions, September 2022. 1-40.

Cooke, Nathalie. “An Introduction to the Illustrated Menu Collection.” Bloomsbury Publishing, January 2022. DOI: 10.5040/9781350934351.001. Link

“Sharing Food and Fun, but Not Necessarily all the Recipe Ingredients,” Occasional Papers of the Culinary Historians of Canada New Series (1, September 2021): 18-23.

Cooke, Nathalie, and Leehu Sigler. “Riddling Menus: A History,” Petits Propos Culinaires, by Prospect Books 120 (August 2021). 13-45.

With Leehu Sigler, “Entertaining Edibles: Riddling Practices in English Recipes and Menus,” Repast, Quarterly Publication of the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor, Vol XXXVII, No.2 (Spring 2021), 6-10.

Cooke, Nathalie, and Nora Shaalan. “Database Dishes.” In The Teaching with Archives & Special Collections Cookbook. Edited by Julie M. Porterfield. Chicago: Association of College & Research Libraries (ACRL), 2021.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Vanns Spices: Blending Food, Women’s Friendship and Business in 1980s Baltimore.” Food and Foodways: Explorations in the History and Culture of Human Nourishment 28, no. 4 (15 October 2020): 297-319.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Montreal in the Culinary Imagination.” In Canadian Culinary Imaginations. Eds. Boyd, Shelley and Dorothy Barenscott. McGill-Queen’s University Press, July 2020. 117-145.

Cooke, Nathalie, Shelley Boyd and Alexia Moyer. “A Literary History of the Mandarin Orange in Canada.” Gastronomica 20, no. 1 (Spring 2020): 83-89. DOI: 10.1525/gfc.2020.20.1.83

Cooke, Nathalie. “The Black Whale Cookbook.” Many Women, Many Voices, Stories from McGill Collections. Eds. Cooke, Nathalie, Frédéric Giuliano, Christopher Lyons, Gwendolyn Owens, Jacquelyn Sundberg, and Mary Yearl. Montreal: McGill Library, 2018. 96-7.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Stories of Rice Lake — Stewards, Settlers and Storytellers.” Food and Landscape, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery. Ed. Mark McWilliams. London: Prospect Books, July 2018. 99-109.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Writing the Chinese Restaurateur into the Canadian Literary Landscape.” Studies in Canadian Literature 42, no. 2 (2017). Released June 2018: 5-25.

Cooke, Nathalie, Irina Mihalache and Elizabeth Ridolfo. Mixed Messages: Making and Shaping Culinary Culture in Canada. Toronto: Coach House Press, May 2018. (A catalogue to accompany a co-curated exhibition at the Fisher Library in Toronto, launched 24 May 2018.) Audioguide of the exhibition available here:

Cooke, Nathalie, and Shelley Boyd. “What is ‘Restaurant Literature’? Depictions of Chinese Restaurants in Canadian Literature.” A CanLit Guide (pedagogical initiative of the journal Canadian Literature), launched on 6 November 2017. See

Catharine Parr Traill’s ‘The Female Emigrant’s Guide’, Cooking with a Canadian Classic. Eds. Cooke, Nathalie and Fiona Lucas. Montreal: McGill-Queen’s Press, June 2017.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Lessons from Generations Past: Timely and Timeless Communication Strategies of Some Canadian Cooks of Note.” Food and Communication, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2015. Ed. Mark McWilliams. London: Prospect Books, July 2016. 131-142.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Canadian Food Radio: Conjuring Nourishment for Canadians Out of Thin Air.” How Canadians Communicate. Ed. Charlene Elliott. University of Athabasca Press, February 2016. 107-128.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Canadian Cookbooks: Changing Ideas about Cooking and Contamination, 1854–1898.” Canadian Bulletin of Medical History 32, no. 2 (October 2015): 297-318.

The Johnson Family Treasury: Household Recipes and Remedies, 1741-1848. Eds. Cooke, Nathalie and Kathryn Harvey. Rock’s Mills Press, October 2015. (An illustrated and annotated facsimile edition of a handwritten cookery manuscript in the University of Guelph Una Abrahamson Collection.)

Founding editor of Cuizine: The Journal of Canadian Food Cultures; revue des cultures culinaires au Canada, an online, born digital, peer-reviewed and indexed (through CAB Abstracts & Global Health Databases) journal of Canadian food cultures. Since 2009 the journal has published two issues per year, and since 2011 has an annual readership of over 12,000. Published by McGill Libraries, CuiZine is hosted by the Érudit digitization initiative, Université de Montréal.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Canada’s Food History through Cookbooks.” Critical Perspectives in Food Studies. Eds. Winson, Anthony, Jennifer Sumner and Koa Mustafa. Don Mills, Ont.: Oxford University Press, 2012. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Spreading Controversy: The Story of Margarine in Quebec.” Edible Histories, Cultural Politics : Towards a Canadian Food History. Eds. Iacovetta, Franca, Marlene Epp and Valerie Joyce Korinek. Toronto; Buffalo; London: University of Toronto Press, 2012. 249-68. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Poems and Recipes: What Do These Two Magpie Modes Have in Common?” Recherches Anglaises et Nord Americaines 43 (2010): 83-94. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. What’s to Eat? : Entrées in Canadian Food History. Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2009. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Home Cooking: The Stories Canadian Cookbooks Have to Tell.” In What’s to Eat? : Entrèes in Canadian Food History. Ed. Cooke, Nathalie. Montreal: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2009. 228-44. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Introduction.” In What’s to Eat? Entrées in Canadian Food History. Ed. Cooke, Nathalie. Montreal & Kingston: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2009. 3-17. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Cookbooklets and Canadian Kitchens.” Material Culture Review 70 (Fall 2009): 22-33. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Getting the Mix Just Right for the Canadian Home Baker.” Essays on Canadian Writing 78 (2003): 192-219. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Cookbooks and Culture.” Encyclopedia of Literature in Canada. Ed. New, W.H. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2002. 234-5. Print.

Cooke, Nathalie. “Bread, Biscotti, and Cappuccino: Tabling the Conversation of Culture.” Italian Canadiana 14 (2002): 1-13. Print.

Invited Lectures and Keynote Addresses

“Reflecting on Home and Away – Over a Canadian Meal.” Keynote for Canada: Sapori di casa – A Taste of Home: Les saveurs de chez soi. Bari, Italy. Universita degli Studi di Bari Aldo Modo. 14 November 2019.

“Food Spokespersonalities of the Twentieth Century.” At Canada’s Table, Fort York, Toronto. 19 October 2019.

“One Lonely Chinese Restaurateur of the Canadian Prairies and a Story with Three Endings.” Workshop at University of Holguin, Cuba. 30 April 2015.

«Vers une histoire littéraire de la cuisine canadienne». Ateliers de l’Honnête Volupté, UQAM. 23 April 2015.

Food Studies: Critical Collaborations, Challenges and Aspirations.  Keynote address.  Food Studies: A Multidisciplinary Menu, University of Adelaide, Australia. 17–19 February 2014.

Stirring the Pot: Food Studies in the Digital Age. Lecture for the Digital Humanities Group, College of Arts, University of Guelph. 21 October 2013.

Food Radio in Canada. How Canadians Communicate about Food, invitational conference, Banff, Alberta. 10-11 May, 2013.

Food For Thought. Roundtable organized by Louis-Georges Harvey, Bishop’s University. 3 April 2013.

Food Studies in the Current Moment. Roundtable organized by Andrea Most, Jackman Institute for the Humanities, University of Toronto. 9 November 2012.

Quebec Foodways. Roundtable organized by Rachel Black, Boston University. McGill University. 19 October 2012.

Cooks of Note: How did a few Women Influence Canadian Food Tastes so Profoundly? Jean Ford Memorial Lecture. Presentation to the Montreal Women’s Arts Society, McCord Museum. 9 October 2012.

Cooking up a Culture of Influence. Montreal, Talk for the University Women’s Club. 18 January 2012.

Cooking Up a Culture of Influence. Presentation to Canadian Studies, UBC. 13 October 2011.

The Self-fashioning of Female Food Celebrities in the 20th Century. Presentation to Green College, UBC. 13 October 2011.

Julia, Jehane and Nigella. Montreal, Talk for the Simone de Beauvoir Institute. 20 May 2011.

Changes in the Ways We Eat – Looking Back to the Days of Pemmican from the Age of Poutine. Château Ramezay Museum, Montreal. 27 March 2011.

Great Canadian Food and Food Stories. Talk for the Eleanor London Côte St-Luc Library. 11 February 2010.

On CuiZine and Canadian Food History. With Ariel Buckley. Talk for the Atwater Library, Montreal. 14 January 2010.

Reviewing Julia Child. Address to the McGill Alumni Association Book Club. 30 September 2009.

Contraband and Controversy: The Fight for Spread on Our Bread. An invited lecture for the Culinary Historians of Ontario. Campbell House Museum, Toronto. 27 November 2008.

What Can We Learn from Quebec? Conference on Taste of Place, University of Vermont, Burlington. 9 November 2008.

How do France and Quebec Support Place-Based Food and Drink? With Christian Berger, French Embassy; Marion Zalay, Director, French National Institute of Origin and Quality; Jason Baillargeon, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada. Taste of Place conference, Middlebury College, Middlebury Vermont. 8 November 2008.

Ladies, Housewives, Soldiers and Seductresses: Four Stages in the Development of Magazine Advertising Techniques in North America, 1900-1950. With Jennifer Garland. Colloquium on Women’s Magazines held at University of Heidelberg. 20 April 2007.

Canadian Food Policy: What Are We Eating? Cape Breton University. 14 March 2007.

Beaver Tails, Bannock and Butter Tarts: Practices and Politics of the Daily Meal in Canada. William Lyon MacKenzie King Lecture, Weatherhead Center for Canadian Studies, Harvard University. 20 March 2006.

Gabrielle Roy’s ‘Where are you Going Sam Lee Wong’: At What Cost the Happy Ending? University of Angers, France. 19 March 2003.

What are the Compass Points on the Literary Map of Montreal? Université de Montréal. 14 March 2003.

The Marketing and Construction of Pleasure: Sweet Sensations in Foodbooks and Advertising. With Jordan LeBel. Concordia University, Montreal. 26 March 2002.

How to Tickle the Palate with a Pen: Food as Symbol of Transformation in Canadian Literature. Northern District Library, North York.  Talk sponsored by the Culinary Historians of Ontario. 17 January 2002.

How Do You Eat Your Chocolate? The Palate and Four Principles of Pleasure. With Jordan LeBel. Simone de Beauvoir Institute, Montreal. 13 December 2001.

Presentations, Panels and Roundtables

Invited Panelist. “The Future of Food Studies.” The pre-conference of the Canadian Association of Food Studies (CAFS) at Congress of the Social Sciences and Humanities, UBC, Vancouver. 2 June 2019.

Presenter. “What is Canadian Cuisine.” Presentation for McGill Alumni community, The Waring House, Picton, Ontario. 16 September 2018.

Panel Member, Roundtable: “Demystifying the Peer Review Process for Graduate Students and Early Career Professionals.” Scarborough Fare ASFS/AFHVS/CAFS Annual Conference, Scarborough. 25 June 2016.

“Table Talk and the One Bilingual Food Journal in Canada.” First International Conference on Food in Translation (sponsored by the University of Bologna), Bertinoro, Italy. 22-24 May 2014.

Presenter. Conference on Single Subject Food Books. Roger Smith Hotel, New York City, 27 April 2013.

Discussant. Conference on Gender and Transcultural Production: Chinese Women’s Journals in their Global Context, 1900-2000. London, England. 13-15 May 2011.

Our Daily Bread. Talk with Richard Virr. McGill University. 2 October 2010.

How Rumbling Stomachs Changed the Course of History. Talk for McGill Libraries at event hosted by Miriam Tees, Montreal. 15 June 2010.

Hard to Swallow: Rationales for Regulating Margarine in Quebec. Max Bell Roundtable. McGill University, Montreal. 26 March 2009.

Facing Off: The Phenomenon of the Corporate Spokesperson in mid-20th Century Canada. Presentation to the Performance and Culture Research Group of McGill’s Centre for Research and Teaching on Women. 4 February 2009.

Why do North Americans Need a PhD to Bake a Cake? Lecture scheduled by Université Nancy 2, France. November 23-24, 2007. This paper was presented in an earlier form as: “Fictional Food Folk: Since when do you need a PhD to Bake a Cake?” McGill University, in conjunction with CBC’s Montreal Matters. 21 October 2004. (Due to the train and university strikes, the paper and images were presented electronically.)

With William Straw. Canadian Culture on the Move: Canadian Music and Literature in the World.  Max Bell Lecture Series, McGill Institute for the Study of Canada, Montreal. 31 March 2007.

Food For Thought: Canadian Ethnic Cookbooks. Panel on Racial inclusion in the Academy. McGill University, Montreal. 22 March 1999.

Conference Papers

“Sharing Food, and Fun, But Not All the Recipe Ingredients,” Panel on Rural Women: Recipes and Remembering at Rural Women’s Studies Association Conference, 14 May 2021. Virtual presentation.

With Shelley Boyd. “CanLit Fare: Food Scenes in Canadian Literature.” For the panel entitled “Eat Your Words,” Congress of Humanities & Social Science (ACCUTE), UBC, Vancouver. 1 June 2019.

“How was One to Know? Validating Medicinal and Nutritional Information when Every(wo)man was Her Own Doctor.” Amsterdam Symposium of Food and History. University of Amsterdam. 15 November 2018.

“Riddle me this? What stories can a cookbook, that is not a cookbook, tell?” Presentation for the First Biannual Conference on Food and Communication, Queen Margaret’s University, Edinburgh. 6 September 2018.

“Riddle me This? When is a Cookbook not a Cookbook?” Presentation for the Collections Thinking Conference, Concordia University. 12 June 2018.

“The Time Was Right for Curry Salt.” Conference on Food, Cultures and Migrations. U Massachusetts, Dartmouth. 15-16 September 2017.

With Deena Yanofsky. “GIS Lite and Online Visualization Tools in the Humanities Classroom.” CARTO 2017 conference on Digital Revolutions. SFU, Vancouver. 21 June 2017.

“Riddle me This? When is a Cookbook not a Cookbook?” Presentation for Canadian Association for the Study of Book Culture. Congress for the Social Sciences and Humanities, Ryerson University. 31 May 2017.

“Recipes in Doncaster: Decades Later, Enigmas Still.” Presentation for ACEF/FSAC, The Folklore Studies Association of Canada. Congress for the Social Sciences and Humanities, Ryerson University. 28 May 2017.

“Mapping Generational Shift in (Literary) Sites of Restaurant Labour. Fast Food Studies (Pecha Kucha), Scarborough Fare ASFS/AFHVS/CAFS Annual Conference, Scarborough, 23 June 2016.

“Reimagining Faculty-Library Partnerships in the 21st Century.” Panel on “Reimagining the Library” at the Conference entitled The Promise of Paradise, Concordia University. 18 June 2016.

“Producing The Johnson Family Treasury: Some Challenges. “Panel on “The Challenges of Preparing Historical Manuscripts for Publication.” The Manuscript Cookbook Conference. Fales Special Collections, New York University. 12 May 2016.

“Lessons from Generations Past: Timely and Timeless Communication Strategies of Six Cooks of Note.” Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery. 4 July 2015.

Co-presenter with Valeria Silva. “What’s on the Menu? Chinese Restaurants in Canadian Literature.” Association of Canadian and Quebec Literature, Ottawa Congress 2015. 30 May 2015.

Les petits déjeuners dans la littérature canadienne: décrire ou manger?” Colloque Raconter l’aliment. La gastronomie et ses récits contemporains. Université Concordia. 11-13 mai 2015.

“Stories of Cultural Integration in the Food Voice.” IX International Seminar on Canadian Studies held in conjunction with the Seventh International Conference of the University of Holguin, Cuba. 27 April 2015.

“Cooks and Crusaders.” Paper for the Panel on Catharine Parr Traill and the Domestic Arts for the University of Ottawa Conference on Rediscovering Early Canadian Literature. 7 May 2010.

“‘The everyday problem of food’ and the Canadian Women Entrusted to Solving It.” Conference on What Questions Remain to be Solved about Canadian Cookbooks, organized by the Culinary Historians of Ontario. University of Toronto. 1-3 May 2009.

“Spreading Controversy: The Story of Margarine in Quebec.” Conference on Domestic Foodscapes. Concordia University, Montreal. 21-22 March 2008.

“What’s in a Cookbooklet.” New Zealand Food History Conference. University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. 29-31 November 2007.

“What do Recipes and Poems Have in Common?” Conference on High and Low Genres, Université Marc Bloch, Strasbourg, France. 23-24 November 2007.

“When Dinner Conversation Turns to the Conversation of Canada.” Panel on “Writing the Diaspora in Canadian Literature in English.” Conference of the Spanish Association of Canadian Studies, Miraflores de la Sierra, Madrid, Spain. 17-18 November 2006.

“Reading Through Canadian Cookbooks.” “Canadian Literature and the School Curriculum.” Cookbooks as History conference. Adelaide, Australia. 3-4 July 2006.

“Loaves and Fishes: Food Scenes in the Fiction of Carol Shields.” Conference on Carol Shields and the Extraordinary. Sorbonne III. Paris. 22 March 2003.

“Fictional Food Personalities.” Conference of the Amsterdam School of Cultural Analysis, Amsterdam, NL. 12 June 2002.

“Food: An Issue of Control.” Panel on Food in Canadian Literature. ACSUS, Seattle, WA. 19 November 1995.

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